FIVE REGIONS, FIVE FOOD-WINE MATCHES

The chef made writer Kálmán Mikszáth’s favourite food, the best Palóc, from confit lamb rump and a base of strong broth made from lamb bones. In addition to the small potatoes, the yellow and green beans make the dish authentically Hungarian. It’s garnished with a pinch of fresh dill. Another indispensable ingredient of Palóc soup is homemade sour cream, while its acidic backbone comes from rice vinegar or lemon juice.

The chef was inspired by the South American ceviche (fish marinated in lemon juice) when preparing trout Tahitótfalu style. However, while coriander, lime and onion are used for the acidic marinade in Peru, he uses lovage and red currants instead. He marinates the trout briefly to preserve its freshness, then serves it with fermented cantaloupe, trout roe, green herbs and flowers. In doing so he paints a gorgeous Danube Bend sunset.

The chef first kneads the dough, then cooks it in bubbling water until soft. The side dish is browned in an iron skillet with homemade sour cream, cottage cheese and tasty Mangalica bacon. Fish broth from the Lower Danube is the base of the catfish stew, and the thick sauce is boiled until it thickens and is then enriched with paprika. The sour cream is served fresh on the side so diners can use as much as they want.

Rooster in red wine is a real delicacy with deep-rooted French traditions. The chef uses lots of onions to make a rich sauce for a full taste, and the flavour of the rooster is enhanced with a good dose of Franc from Villány. In contrast to the traditional dish, the rooster in red wine is served with Swabian garnish: dumplings with sauerkraut are made, of course, based on a traditional, local recipe.

When preparing one of the most iconic sweets of our national cuisine (and Hungarian kids’ childhoods), he was inspired by his grandmother, who used to make barátfüle from potato dough. Eggs and the essential organic flour are added to the potatoes. Once the dough is done, it’s time to head to the pantry for some home-made Szatmár plum jam, cooked in a cauldron for a day without using sugar. The panko crumbs are then fried in a little butter until golden, and when served, the cherry on top is actually a few slices of fresh plum and flowers from the nearby organic garden.